Otterhound Ear Infections: Signs, Causes and Ear Care

An Otterhound comes back from the river looking like a soaked hearth rug, tail going, nose still working, totally pleased with itself. Under all that shaggy hair hang two long, heavily furred ears that were never designed to dry quickly. If you share your home with one of these rare, boisterous hounds, ear care is part of the deal.

This guide walks through what sets Otterhound ears apart, the early clues that something is off, the usual triggers, the moments that call for your vet and a routine that suits a dog who sees every puddle as an invitation.

Why Otterhound ears need extra attention

The Otterhound is a big, rough-coated scent hound originally kept to hunt otters along British rivers. Today it is one of the rarer breeds you will meet, and owners tend to describe it as cheerful, loud and a little clownish. Several features of the breed come together at the ears.

Draped, hairy ear leather

The ears are long and pendulous, set low, and they fold over at the leading edge so they drape rather than hang flat. Shaggy hair covers the outside of the leather. That combination works like a thick curtain over the canal: little air gets in, and warmth and damp stay trapped underneath.

A coat built to hold oil and water

The Otterhound wears a rough, crisp outer coat over a soft, slightly oily undercoat. The oil helps keep the skin underneath from getting soaked in cold water, but it also means the hair around the ears can stay damp and greasy for a long time after a swim. Wax and grime cling to it easily.

A genuine love of water

Large webbed feet and a powerful stroke make this a strong swimmer, and most Otterhounds seek water out on their own. Repeated soaking leaves the canal skin soft and moist, which is the setting where yeast and bacteria already living in the ear can overgrow.

Scent work and allergies

Nose-down trailing drags ear tips through mud and wet vegetation, and seed heads can hitch a ride into the folds. Like many dogs, some Otterhounds also have itchy skin from environmental or food allergies, and that itch often shows up in the ears first.

A large UK study of ear inflammation in dogs found hounds and breeds with pendulous ears at higher odds than other dogs, and the Otterhound ticks both boxes. Its long-eared cousin the Bloodhound faces a similar challenge from heavy facial skin; our Bloodhound ear guide covers that side of the family. For a wider list of breeds with similar concerns, see our roundup of dog breeds predisposed to ear infections.

Clues that an Otterhound's ear is bothering it

Because the ears are buried in hair, a problem can be well underway before you see it. Rely on behavior and smell as much as looks:

1. Frequent, hard head shakes, even when the dog is dry
2. Dragging the side of the head along the carpet, grass or furniture
3. Scratching at the ear and then sniffing or licking the paw
4. A sour, yeasty or musty smell that is stronger than the usual wet-dog aroma
5. Matted, sticky hair at the base of the ear or on the inner leather
6. Brown or yellowish wax, or a canal opening that looks red and puffy
7. Holding one ear lower than the other or tilting the head
8. Ducking away when you reach toward that side of the face

Matted hair near the ear opening deserves a closer look; it often hides discharge underneath.

What usually sets things off

Retained water. River swims, baths and wet weather leave moisture that cannot escape past the draped flap and dense hair.

Allergic skin. Allergies are one of the most common reasons ear trouble keeps returning in any breed. Your vet can help sort out environmental and food triggers.

Wax and hair. Oily coat, heavy wax and hair near the opening form a sticky plug that holds debris in place.

Foreign material. Grass awns, burrs and twigs picked up in the field can work into the canal and cause sudden, one-sided irritation.

Parasites. Ear mites are less common in adult dogs but do occur, especially in young dogs or homes with several pets.

When to see your vet

Routine cleaning belongs to healthy ears. Once an ear is sore, red or smelly, it needs a veterinary exam first, since the vet has to see the canal and eardrum before anything goes in. Book a visit if you notice:

• Pain: your dog yelps, flinches or will not let you touch the ear
• Head tilt, loss of balance, circling or unusual eye movements
• Bleeding, or a swollen, puffy ear flap (this can be a blood blister called an aural hematoma)
• A bad smell together with discharge
• Redness or swelling that is getting worse
• Symptoms that have not improved after a few days, or keep coming back

Heavy, hairy ears plus vigorous shaking make a puffy flap a real possibility in this breed. Skip vinegar, peroxide, alcohol and homemade oil blends, and keep cotton swabs out of the canal. Any hair growing inside the canal itself is something to discuss with your vet or groomer rather than pluck at home.

A practical ear routine for a water-mad hound

Plan on a weekly ear check for every Otterhound, plus a clean after each swim or bath. In a dry spell with no swimming, every week or two is usually plenty. If your dog has a history of flare-ups, ask your vet how often to clean.

• Dry the head first. Squeeze water from the ear hair with a towel, then let the dog shake. A cool hair dryer setting held at a distance can help with thick coats if your dog accepts it.
• Part the hair and look. Flip the ear up and over the head, comb the hair aside and check the inner leather and canal opening. Anything red, swollen, smelly or oozing means stop and phone your vet.
• Fill the canal with a dog ear cleaner while the flap is held up.
• Massage the base of the ear for 60 to 90 seconds.
• Step back. A big hound shake sends cleaner and debris everywhere, so outdoors or a tiled room is best.
• Wipe the opening and the inner flap with cotton pads or gauze. Never push anything down into the canal.
• Comb out the ear hair once it is dry so mats do not form at the base.

Between cleans, keeping the hair on the underside of the ear neatly trimmed by a groomer can let a little more air in without changing the breed's shaggy look.

About EcoEars: EcoEars is a botanical dog ear cleaner with no antibiotics or steroids, made in the USA in an FDA-registered facility. As directed on the label, fill the ear canal, massage the base of the ear for 60 to 90 seconds, let your dog shake, and wipe away loosened debris. Use it twice daily for 10 days in a row, then weekly or as needed. It is for dogs 12 weeks and older and for dogs only, since it contains tea tree oil.

For a walk-through of supplies, see how to clean your dog's ears and the tools you'll need.

Otterhound ear FAQ

Should I stop my Otterhound from swimming?

Not usually. Swimming is a big part of this breed's happiness. Focus on drying the head and cleaning the ears afterward, and talk to your vet if flare-ups keep following swims.

Is the smell normal for this breed?

A slightly oily, doggy coat smell is typical. A sharp, sour or rotten smell coming from the ear itself is not, especially with discharge or scratching, and calls for a vet visit.

Can I trim the hair on my Otterhound's ears?

Light trimming on the outside and underside of the flap is fine and can help air flow. Leave hair inside the canal to your vet or an experienced groomer.

Why does only one ear seem to bother my dog?

A one-sided problem can point to something lodged in that ear, such as a grass awn. Have your vet look rather than waiting it out.